"When do we harvest potatoes?"

The Redeemed Gardener

  I had a question emailed to me a few days ago and knew I needed to answer this, the question was; "When do we harvest potatoes?"

  Well, it all depends on what you are wanting. If you want “new potatoes”, small, immature potatoes, you should harvest them before their vines die or earlier in the summer (around the first day of summer). They will be about 1 to 2 inches in size.

 

  If you want mature potatoes, or “late potatoes,” (as Grammie called them) you should harvest them in late summer/early fall. Just wait for the vines and the flowers to die, and then harvest the potatoes at full maturity.

 

  Here's another method we used, If you have a lot of plants, you can harvest some of the plants earlier in the summer and get “new potatoes” and leave the rest to dig up later. Just experiment and try digging some at the end of July, some at the end of August, and some at the end of September. Then next year, you’ll have a better idea about how big they are at what time of the season.

 

 When you go to harvest your potatoes, here is an article that I posted a while back on a cheap Mini Root Cellar.   "Cool, Cheap, Mini Root Cellars"

 

 

 But the Lord is faithful, who will establish you and guard you from the evil one. 2 Thessalonians 3:3 

"Great Soil is a Gardens Foundation", Part 2

   Okay, so now I am sure you have figured out what your soil pH is, what type of soil you have, if it has the right drainage and how your microorganisms are in your soil! Right? That is if you read part 1 last week?? So here are some tips and secrets to help your soil.

#1 If your soil isn't draining correctly, its probably because it's clay soil! So what can you do? Feed it lots of Organic Matter! Dig in lots of chunky like straw, pine needles, wood chips. You can also work in leaves, grass clippings, animal manure (not dog or cat), or my favorite thing, Compost. These will open up the soil so that nutrient and worms call move through the soil better.  
        Tip: Fresh organic matter uses lots of nitrogen during the break down process. But you can correct this if you will add one of these three things to each bushel of organic material you add to the soil.
         1 pound of nitrate of soda or (Ammonium sulfate, ammo-phos, cottonseed, soybean meal, or tankage)
      1/2 pound of ammonium nitrate
      1/2 pound of ammonium sulfate

#2 Dig in your Organic material in the fall,  the best way to do this is by Double Digging. 
         What is double-digging? Nothing more than loosening the soil more than 12 inches down to create conditions that your plants' roots can stretch their legs out in and soak up more nutrients and water!
         How do you double dig?  Begin at one end of the bed and dig a 1-foot-wide by 1-foot-deep trench across the bed's width, placing the excavated dirt in a wheelbarrow or tarp. Next, work a garden fork into the floor of the trench and slowly rock it back and forth to loosen the soil. Continue until the soil in the excavated area is loosened. Dig a second, similar-size trench next to the first, this time placing the excavated soil in the first trench. Loosen the soil at the bottom of the second trench with the garden fork. Dig another trench and back fill the second trench, loosen the bottom of the third trench, and continue this process until you reach the end of the bed. Fill the last trench with the soil excavated from the first.   Note: As you go remember to work in any and all Organic Material that you are going to use, this will work it deep into the soil.
          Tip: If its an existing bed or the middle of the growing season, you can use a garden fork to loosen the soil. Just push it in the ground as fare as you can, work it back and forth, pull the fork out, move the fork a few inches and repeat the first step. After you get done with the fork, spread lots of compost or smaller organic matter and it will works its way down into the fork holes.
              *  For larger fields like hay fields or lawns, uses a Lawn Aerator, Spiker, Plugger, Core Aerator, or Aerifier in place of a garden fork and spread lots of compost or smaller organic matter and it will works its way down into the fork holes. Most of the time with a hayfield it get's to acidic because of all the animal urine. So it will probably need more lime than anything to correct the problem.

#3 Back To Eden? There is another wonderful way to get larger and even smaller areas back to a most perfect way to grow and its rather simple! HURRY TELL ME! I knew you would ask, lol! Check out this video called "Back to Eden", its amazing how he prepared his site to garden. It is a 2 hour video but what else do you have to do on a cold winters evening! On-line video

#4 If you don't want to go through all that work, do like I do and build "Raised Beds" and garden in those. That way you can control the type of soil and its drainage.


  Here were just a few more tips for your soil. Remember more time spent here will be worth it in the long run. Playin in the dirt is a lot of fun, so dig in there! Next week we should finish our talk on soil.

"Grace is God giving us what we do not deserve and mercy is God not giving us what we do deserve."

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"Garden Tool Maintenance 101"

   Well we talked about in "Things to do, in the Garden, in the fall" garden tool maintenance and in "Winterizing Your Lawn Mower" about the importance of maintenance. Now lets put it to use!  You will just need a few things:

Tools Needed

1) Steel brush, to brush all of the hard debris and rust off the steel surfaces!
2)Bucket of warm soapy water, to wash down all the tools.
3) WD40, is to treat the steel parts of the hand tools to prevent rust.
4) Tung Oil or Linseed Oil, is to treat the wooden handles of the tools for prevention of rot and to keep them strong.
5) Old Rags, washing and application of  oils.
6) Spray Paint, for spray painting certain tools.
7) A file, for sharping.

  
  Tool maintenance is another not so fun but necessary gardening job, that again must people want even know you have done. I take that back your children and grand children will because if you take time to do this you will be able to pass your tools down to them!
  With the steel brush, Soapy water and Rags, you are going to clean the tools of all dirt and/or rust. After you let the dry use the file to sharpen the tools that may need an edge. Then Spray down the metal parts with WD40 to prevent rusting, unless you are gonna paint the surface. If you are gonna paint the surface DO NOT spray it with any oil, the paint won't stick! Finally, I used Tung Oil and an old rag to rub all the wood surfaces down, you can do this 2 or 3 times if you would like for more protection. Just let then set in sun to dry before putting away for the winter!

Before Cleaning

Before Cleaning

  When you look at the tools in the picture's, think of the money saved from taking care of them. I only bought one of the shovels the rest were pasted down to me from Dad and Grandpa's! So you can see how frugal this is in the long run and we can use every penny saved in this economy today!

After, Just Like New!

  Final Tip: My Dad had a 5 gallon bucket of sand sitting on the inside of the door of his shop. He would mix used motor oil in with the sand. Ever time he used his tools and would return to put them up he push the steel ends of the shovel (for example) down into the oily sand. This would clean the dirt of and give them an oily protection from rust. I haven't done it yet, only because I just remembered it while I was cleaning my tools. That will be next!

"If by doing some work which the undiscerning consider “not spiritual work” I can best help others, and I inwardly rebel, thinking it is the spiritual for which I crave, when in truth it is the interesting and the exciting, then I know nothing of Calvary love." ~ Amy Carmichael

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"Roof Maintenance isn't fun but Nessesary"

 Maintenance on your house or garden shed roof isn't fun but necessary, if you want your roof to last for a long time. Its part of "Fall Garden maintenance"! There are just a hand full of things to do but I think the must important one is cleaning the debris of so as it won't lay there and rot and must of it makes great compost anyway! Probably the second most important is cleaning out the gutters. If you don't do this the water tends to work its way back under the shingles and cause the roof boards to rot and at extreme, water can leak into the building and cause major damage on the inside!
  So here are the tools you need: 1) Ladder 2)Small hand shovel 3) A Broom 4) Hammer 5) A tube of black tar and caulk gun and 6) Gutter guards if you choose.

Debris on roof!

Very full Gutters!

  As you can tell by the pictures my workshop/garden shed set under trees. So I needed to climb up on the roof and clean, so why not do the other maintenance while up there? Lets face it a roof is something you want to last for a long time!
  1) Use the broom to sweep off all debris. As you do this look for roofing nail heads that may have worked up. When you see this situation, lift up the shingle to expose nail head, put a little tar under the head and drive it down with the hammer. The tar will seal any leak that may have been there. Also look for any damaged shingles, you may have to replace those as well.
  2) Use the little hand shovel to clean out the gutters. As you go give the gutter nails a little tap with the hammer, the nails tend to work out over time.
  3) To make life simpler next time you could do like I did and put gutter guards on. There are many to choose from, you just pick what you think is best!

Gutter Guards

  Like I said its not fun work and must people won't even know you did it but it is very necessary to the long life of a roof, especially if you have trees around. The work of a gardener is never done! 

Matthew 8:8  The centurion answered and said, “Lord, I am not worthy that You should come under my roof. But only speak a word, and my servant will be healed."

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What do you SEED in this picture?

Look Very Very Closely!

Photo by: TheRedeemedGardener

Photo by: TheRedeemedGardener

  

  

  Pardon the use of words there but I couldn't resist (SEED)! What I see is next years "Blue lake" Pole Beans SEEDS! Yes its the end of the growing season but you still can think of next year as you clean up the garden beds for the winter. That is if you do not year round garden. Saving seeds from your beans is much easier than you may think and here is how.

Saving Bean seeds:

1) Let the Bean Fully mature on the plant.

2) Either let the beans totally dry out on the plant or pick the biggest filled pods from the plant string them on some string and hang them in a warm/dry place to dry out.

3) When the pods are as dry as a "popcorn fart", just crumble the bean pods in your hand to remove the bean itself.

4) As with any other seed you save. Put the beans in an airtight/dry container or plastic baggy.

5) Store them with the rest of your seeds for next year in a dry place.

6) Next season when you are ready to plant, remember to soak your bean seeds in water for 24 hours before planting. This will help germination!

If you didn't catch my post on saving Tomato Seeds, here it is as well! "Saving Tomato Seeds, for next year".

Tips for Saving Beans:

•  Choose beans from plants that are strong, prolific, and disease-free. Remember: healthy plants = healthy seeds = healthy plants next year.
•  Only save those dry beans that are large in size, smooth, and whole. Don't save seeds that are smaller than the others, wrinkly, or broken.
•  Only save seeds from heirloom, open-pollinated beans. Hybrids won't come true from seed.

 

Mark 4:30  Then He said, “To what shall we liken the kingdom of God? Or with what parable shall we picture it? ³¹ It is like a mustard seed which, when it is sown on the ground, is smaller than all the seeds on earth; ³² but when it is sown, it grows up and becomes greater than all herbs, and shoots out large branches, so that the birds of the air may nest under its shade.”

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"Black Gold and Other Soil Amendments"

   Well this is the time of the year when I will tuck most of my beds in for the winter, other then the one that I plant fall/winter crops in! There are many things to do in the fall but to me the must important thing to do is soil preparation for next year, The soil is the "Heart of the Garden".
 There are at least four factors to consider in selecting a soil amendment:

• how long the amendment will last in the soil,
• soil texture,
• soil salinity and plant sensitivities to salts, and
• salt content and pH of the amendment.

 Soil tests can determine the salt content, pH and organic matter of organic amendments. The quality of bulk organic amendments for large-scale landscape uses can then be determined.
  Remember each plant that you have planted has had its fill of a lot of the minerals and vitamins that are in the soil. So its our job to help replace those key elements so we can get the best out of our garden next season. Some people will plant a cover crop, which with my bed that I have kept open for fall/winter crops that what I will do but with the others I believe I will just use good old "Black Gold and Other Soil Amendment"!

The Redeemed Gardener

   If you don't know what black gold is, it's the product of those free compost bins I made in the beginning of the year. Read more on that at "Dirt Cheap Compost" and don't worry if you live in the city you can have compost with the "Champion Composters", worms! Here to the right is a hand full of the finished product out of my compost bins. I also mixed in equal parts of horse manure that I got for free from a friend of mine at church, you remember her from the trip we made to see her new born baby goats! All I had to do is go pick it up and they are glad to get rid of it! After I worked that into my beds, I took a couple scoops (about the size of a large coffee can) of die chicken manure and scattered it on top of the soil. Chicken manure is very rich in stuff that the soil needs. I got 5 gallon buckets of it for free as well from a friend of mine that owns chickens and by just asking he gave me some! Then as with the other Amendments I work it down into the soil.

Chicken Poop in a Bucket, lol!

  Why work it into the soil, because amending a soil is not the same thing as mulching, although many mulches also are used as amendments. A mulch is left on the soil surface. Its purpose is to reduce evaporation and runoff, inhibit weed growth, and create an attractive appearance. Mulches also moderate soil temperature, helping to warm soils in the spring and cool them in the summer. So that leads me to the final thing that I do to tuck them in for the winter and that's put a good layer of my mulched up leaves/grass mix, from the yard right on top of the soil, about 4 to 6 inches will do. Then I will work that in in the early early spring to the soil as well. You can also use bark mulch as well and here is a great video to watch on the use of mulch in the garden, "Back to Eden". These are just some of the things I do to get the soil prepared for winter and for next season. There are also many different "Organic and Inorganic Amendments" out there, I just chose Organic for all the best reasons! Here is a very good article I found from "Gardener's Supply Company" that is more in depth from the professional side of this subject. Remember I am a simple farm boy (living in the city) that has been known to be called "Jethro" before, lol! Those of you that haven't been with me for a while should read that article for a good ol knee slapper of a laugh!
  So for us simple folks here is a recap:

•   Test your soil, to see what it is missing and what type it is
•   Locate the type of Amendment you need for your garden (free/organic is best)
•   Work you Amendment into your soil
•   Tuck your Garden in with a good layer of mulch, (leaves, bark, news paper, etc)
•   And let God do the rest, "He Promises"

"You must keep all earthy treasures out of your heart, and let Christ be your treasure, and let Him have your heart." ~ C.H. Spurgeon

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Things to do, in the Garden, in the fall?

      Well it is getting to be that time of the year where the leaves are changing, the days are getting shorter and for some harvest time! Some of us are starting to plant Fall Crops  and others are closing the garden down for the fall. Which ever your plans for your garden you have, start with a plan. Last week I gave you "10 vegetables to grow in fall" , this week I am compiling a list of other things to do in the fall for you to get started with.
  1)Finish the harvest:You can pick green tomatoes before a frost and they will continue to ripen inside. Pick those that are full size and starting to turn yellow. Wrap each tomato in a piece of newspaper or paper towel. Take a few out at a time and place on a sunny window sill to ripen. Harvest tender crops like peppers, eggplant, and cucumbers before the first frost. Harvest all other above ground crops before a hard freeze. Dig potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, carrots, onions, and other root vegetables before the ground freezes. Pumpkins won’t continue to ripen after picking but you must pick them before a hard freeze and protect them from freezing. 

Photo By" The Redeemed Gardener

  2)Clean up the vegetable garden: This is the dirt, not so fun part but it needs to be done. Must everything can go in those "Dirt Cheap Compost Bin's", and the rest you can burn on the garden if you would want to!  Cover exposed soil with a layer of compost, straw, leaves or other material, especially in areas that don’t get much snow or plant a "cover crop". Also put away your cages and stakes for next year as well.
  3)Soil test and amend your soil: Fall is a great time to have your soil tested and make adjustments to soil pH or amend nutrient imbalances. Get the soil tested as early as possible, you’ll generally get results back from the lab faster than in the spring but leave time before the soil freezes to add amendments. 
  4)Make garden plans for next year: Perennial plants are mature, so make decisions on whether the garden is too crowded or whether it needs more plants or some changes made. It’s a good time to make some notes about annuals and vegetables that grew well or didn’t do well so you won’t repeat mistakes in the spring. Find those plant tags you stuck in beside plants and write down variety names you want to remember. You’ll be surprised what you forget over the winter or at least I forget a lot, lol! Take some pictures of the mature garden to remind you what it looks like as you drool over plant catalogs in the winter. 
  5)Divide those perennials: "Dividing Plants are free" and a fun gift for family and friends! So get the shovel out and divide some of your perennials!
  6)Fix the lawn:Fall is the perfect time to fertilize the lawn and to repair or replace the grass. Fall fertilization allows for good root growth, and gets the grass off to a good start in the spring. Chopping the leaves that fall on your lawn with a mower and letting them remain on the lawn is another way of returning valuable nutrients back to the soil.

Photo by: The Redeemed

 7)Plant:  Fall is the best time to plant your new additions like trees, shrubs, fruit trees, bulbs, garlic and even your perennials that you have divided!
 8)Start laying out a winter Bible devotional plan!
 9)Tools:   If you decide to fall garden, so to continue to have fresh veggies later on then happy gardening to you! But if you are do for the season like must people are, don't forget this last and most forgotten task that must people do forget. I have been guilty myself!
  Clean those shovels, sharpen those blades and chains, fix those handles, hose down your mower and other equipment and don't forget the underneath side of everything, store everything in its proper place and easy to find for next year, and something to help keep away some of the headache for next year is "PUT STABILIZER IN YOUR GAS" or drain it, lol! I have fussed at myself many time for not doing so, as I yank my shoulder off trying to get something started. You have been there or you wouldn't be laughing right know!
  Well here is a few Ideas, leave your other ideas at the bottom and if you have a blog and a great fall helpful idea, Please feel free to leave a link back for use!

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10 Vegetables to Grow in the Fall

   Some people have asked, "What can I grow in the fall to winter months in my garden?"  Well here are 10 very easy to grow veggies that you can enjoy in the cool season and sometimes into the first snow! As you plant and grow please let me know how your crops are doing! I trust everyone has had a great growing season so fare?

	By: The Redeemed Gardener Broccoli - Broccoli seedlings should be planted 10 weeks before the first frost date in your area. This means planting them during the last hot summer days so it's important to mulch around them to help keep the ground cool and moist. Feed the plants 3 weeks after transplanting into the garden. Use a low nitrogen fertilizer. 70 days to maturity.
	Brussels Sprouts – Brussels sprouts are ideal for fall gardens because they really taste best when allowed to mature in cool weather. In my mid-South garden, summer comes too quickly to grow them in the spring garden. Set the plants out in mid-summer. It will take about 3 months before the sprouts appear. They are ready for harvest when they are firm and green. 90 days to maturity.
	Cabbage – Plant seedlings 6 to 8 weeks before the first frost. If the heat of summer is still intense when it's time to plant in your area, give the young plants protection from sun. Cabbages are heavy feeders that require fertile soil rich in organic matter and consistent moisture. 70 days to maturity.
	Cauliflower - Plant seedlings 6 to 8 weeks before the first frost. Cauliflower can be tricky to grow. Rich soil and consistent watering are the keys. Fluctuations in temperature, moisture and nutrients can cause the plant to "button" or produce small, undersized heads. Blanch the heads by tying the outer leaves together over the heads when they are about 2 to 3 inches across. This keeps them from turning green and becoming bitter. 60 days to maturity.
	Kohlrabi - Kohlrabi is a member of cabbage family, but it looks and tastes similar to a turnip. The bulbous edible portion grows just above the soil line. Shade young plants from summer sun. 40 to 60 days to maturity depending on variety.
	Lettuce – Sow seeds in late summer. Provide the seedlings with consistent moisture and shade from the afternoon sun. 45 to 60 days to harvest depending on type and variety.
	Mustard Greens – Sow seeds 6 weeks before the first frost. Seeds will germinate in soil that is 45 to 85 degrees F. Keep the soil consistently moist to encourage rapid growth and tender greens. 45 days to maturity.
	Radish – Sow seeds for radishes 4 weeks before the first frost. Winter varieties such as China Rose, mature slower, grow larger and store longer. They should be sown about 6 weeks before the first frost. Sow the seeds evenly so you don't have to thin them. No feeding necessary, but soil should be fertile and well drained. They are quick to mature so check them regularly. They are ready to harvest as soon as they are of edible size. 25 to 50 days to maturity depending on variety.
	Rutabaga – Sow seeds 12 weeks before the first frost. In regions where summer is long and hot, wait to sow seeds until night time temperatures are consistently around 50 to 60 degrees F. Rutabagas are a cross between cabbage and turnip. Although they are suitable for early spring gardens, they seem to have the best flavor when grown in fall. Keep the soil consistently moist to prevent roots from forking. 90 days to maturity.
	Spinach – Sow seeds 5 weeks before first frost date. The short days and cool, moist weather of fall is even better for spinach than spring. An established spinach crop will last well into winter and can survive temperatures down into the 20s. Spinach prefers very fertile soil to encourage rapid growth and tender leaves. 45 days to maturity.  "Don’t say, “How could God forgive me for that!” (whatever that is). Don’t think that God’s forgiveness is a begrudging forgiveness and with that thought deny some of God’s glorious love. And don’t think that God’s promises are only for other people. If this is how you are thinking, you must realize that your own sins, no matter how big, are not bigger than God’s pleasure in forgiveness."  Edward T. Welch Linked with: Blog Carnival Country Garden Showcase Barn Hop 80