I have had a question asked that is post worthy so her we go with the answer and I will try to keep it
"Jethro Simplified"! It was a three part question.
(1. I didn't get any female flowers..why? 2. How do you keep the bugs off
the pumpkins? 3. How often do you feed and water the pumpkins.)
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| Cinderella Pumpkins and Squash |
First things first, this may help with a lot of things. Did you know that cucumbers, zucchini and pumpkins are all in the same family? Usually the same problems you have with one you will the other and usually the same solutions! I grow
"Cinderella" variety and have much success!
You can go back and read
"Great Soil Foundation, Parts 1, 2, and 3"
Soil, Water and Planting Spot:
Pumpkins love good rich composted soil that drains well but also hold moister (Loamy soil), lots of organic matter should be worked into the soil. The perfected soil pH is between 6.0-7.0, so check your soil before planting.
Pumpkins love lots and lots of sun, so pick an area with 8 plus hours of direct sunlight a day.
They
require heavy and even watering (because of shallow roots), mulching around them will help hold moister in those hot dry times, Trickle irrigation is best, but soaker hoses also work well.
Overhead sprinklers are effective; however, wet foliage increases the
chance of disease, especially mildew.
If you have amended the soil right you shouldn't have to fertilize more than once a week and just an multipurpose fertilizer will work.Giant
pumpkin vines require approximately 2 pounds nitrogen, 3 pounds
phosphorous and 6 pounds potash per 1,000 square feet of
growing space.
Planting and Growing:
Pumpkins have a very long growing season, some verities up to 120 days (4 months). So start them indoors 3-4 weeks before YOUR last frost or wait til the soil is 70 degrees to direct plant seeds.
Pumpkins are very sensitive to temperature, so always be prepared to cover them in the early season to protect from cold night or even cold days. They grow best when days an nights are above 70 degrees.
Insects and Diseases:
The planting site of your plants should be rotated each year to
reduce the incidence of insect and disease pressure. An insect and
disease control program must be initiated at transplanting. Insects
are the primary reason for transmitting disease. Once a viral
infection has occurred, there is no way to stop it. But if you start at the beginning and give them lots of soil preparation, water and a control program, this will help drastically. If you need pesticide help,
Bonide has many good things to use! Remember if you grow cucumbers and have succeeded then you already have a great foundation for pumpkins!
Insect pests of pumpkins include spotted and striped cucumber
beetles, which can transmit bacterial wilt disease, which causes vines
to collapse and die. Treat adult beetles with neem or pyrethrum. Be
aware, however, that these are toxic to all insects, including
beneficial predators and bees. Make applications at dusk to avoid
harming bees. Other insect pests include squash bugs, which must be controlled early or they can be devastating, and squash vine borers.
Pollination:
Although hand pollination is the preferred method to fruit
setting, natural pollination by bees will work well. Hand pollination
allows for a more controlled genetic cross.But don't begin pollinating
until the plant has approximately 200 leaves. Some experts even say pull the first female flower on each vine to allow your vines more time to grow stronger? Initially it is
recommended to allow only 4 to 6 pumpkins per plant but the more you reduce
the competition for nutrients, the greater your success rate will be
for achieving a giant size pumpkin.
Male and Female Flowers:
Pumpkin vines are going to produce male flowers long before it
produces female flowers. Because female
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| Female Flower |
flowers need to be pollinated,
there is no point of them blooming first because the male flower needs
to be present in order to pollinate it.
I wont go into the scientific ways to know the difference, just the way Grammie taught us! To figure out the gender of the flower just look underneath of it.
The female flower will have a pea-sized lump underneath the base of the
bud. As the bud grows and prepares to open, the lump will gradually get
bigger until it is about the size of a doughnut hole. If pollination
occurs, this lump will develop into your pumpkin! The male flower is
lacking this lump.
Why do I have NO female flowers?
If you follow all of the soil preparations, watering, fertilizing and give them lots of sun the should always give you female flower but some years, some crops just fail, its part of the process! So depending on conditions, the female flowers may bloom long after the
male flowers. The plants should continue to produce flowers all season,
so patience is in order here and lots of patience.
Again, Be patient. Pumpkins can take a long time to set and develop, especially
in shifting weather conditions, i.e. too hot, too much rain, etc. They are very sensitive!
Harvest Time:
As pumpkins form, you can slip a piece of cardboard or folded newspaper
beneath pumpkins to prevent contact with soil and possible rot,
especially if you are growing a precious few. Toward the end of the
season, remove any leaves that shade ripening pumpkins.Harvest pumpkins
before frost. Fruit is ripe when it is fully colored, skin is hard, and
the stem begins to shrivel and dry. Pumpkin vines are often prickly, so
wear gloves and long sleeves when harvesting to keep from itching. To
harvest, cut stems with a sharp knife, leaving at least an inch of stem
on fruits (more stem is better). Lift pumpkins by slipping your hand
under the bottom of the fruit. Never lift a pumpkin by its stem; if the
stem breaks, the pumpkin won’t store well.
Tip: To protect the pumpkin from direct sunlight, construct a shade out
of burlap or other lightweight material. This will prevent premature
hardening of the outer skin and will allow the pumpkin to reach its
full genetic potential in terms of physical size.
Nutritional Facts:
Did you know that Pumpkins are full of nutrition, dishing up vitamin C, beta-carotene, fiber,
and potassium. One half cup of cooked pumpkin provides a day’s supply
of vitamin A.
Well, I've started harvesting potatoes here in West Virginia! This is a new type for me, we planted "fingerlings" alone with the old standby Yukons. While the Yukons are not ready yet, the fingerlings are ready to dig. What are these potatoes that I speak of? Fingerling potatoes, so named because they resemble fingers. These small, waxy, narrow, elongated potatoes typically range from 2 to 4 inches in length. Fingerling potatoes come in a variety of colors, from pale yellow to red to purple. Fingerlings have mild to nutty flavors. Some varieties of fingerlings are hundreds of years old. These potatoes cook more quickly than larger types, maintain their shape well when cooked, and generally create an aesthetically pleasing plating.
For larger branches, cut outside the branch bark and ridge
collar (swollen area). Do not leave a protruding stub. If the limb is
too small to have formed a collar cut close.
